About Me

I'm a 27 year-old from Los Angeles, California, with a BA from Tufts University and an MSc in Primate Conservation from Oxford Brookes University. My passion is primates, so I like to spend my time in remote areas traveling, researching, and rehabilitating apes and monkeys! Email me directly at AmandaClaireHarwood@gmail.com Also check out my other blog http://www.AmandaHinArgentina.blogspot.com/

Saturday, April 6, 2013

Twenty Hours in Turkey


I left CARE, ready to start my next adventure in Indonesia, one I had been waiting to do for almost two years now. But it was a long process first to get there. My first leg took me from Phalaborwa to Jo’burg, then Jo’burg to Istanbul, Turkey. My dad and I had found this flight and thought it would just be nice and random and fun to have a long layover in Istanbul, about 20 hours. Why not, right? A couple months before this, my brother Adam and is girlfriend Lindsay were deciding where to go for a European vacation and thought “why not meet Amanda in Istanbul?” So quite randomly, everything worked out perfectly and we met up in Istanbul for the day. I landed about an hour before them at around 6am. We made our way to the quaint little hotel they were staying in. It was about mid-50s-60s there, which meant I was freezing, having just come from 100 degree weather, and they were warm, having just come from snowy New York. We spent the rest of the morning just walking around, taking in the neighborhood. It had been a while since we had all been proper tourists and we sure looked the part, with cameras around our necks and guide books in hand. We toured the Topkapi Palace and the Hagia Sophia. We ran a couple errands for things I needed and figured out how to send a package of stuff home for me. We spent most of the afternoon wandering around the Grand Bizarre, a crazy maze of shops and stalls that sold everything from Turkish trinkets to scarves to carpets. We spent some down time at the hotel, went out to a nice Turkish dinner, had a couple beers, and before we knew it, it was time for me to head back to the airport. I cannot express how great that day was. It was great to see Adam and Lindsay after almost 8 months and it was great to spend my layover doing all that fun stuff with them.  
Adam and Lindsay in front of the Blue Mosque

inside the Hagia Sophia

Leaving South Africa



I know I’ve been bad at updating this blog, but I guess I just got caught up in everything at CARE. After about 5 months at CARE, raising my two boys, Orion and Awesome, all day and all night, I finally weaned them to not sleep with me. This process was not an easy one. You basically have to shove them screaming into a cage where they will sleep for the night. But for the first time in months I slept alone, without any baby baboons. It was a very strange and lonely feeling, but also liberating. I no longer had to worry all night about my boys running everywhere, knocking things over, changing nappies, making bottles, etc. That said, I did miss them very much at night.

 
Our last night sleeping together



Lajuma mountains
Since I was no longer solely responsible for those two kids, I decided to take a few weeks off from CARE and see some other friends. I spent a few weeks with my best friend, Joselyn at Lajuma Research Center. She was doing field work studying behaviors of wild baboons up in the mountains. It was great to get away and spend time with new people and in a new environment. We went hiking and swimming and just hung around doing mostly nothing. It was super relaxing. I then spent a week in Pretoria, South Africa’s capital with Joselyn and our other friends Zurika and Dylan, all of whom I’d met at CARE. We had a nice little braai and party for my birthday. I spent a weekend with Dylan at his friends’ farm, which was amazing and relaxing. A final night was spent in Pretoria where I had to say goodbye to two of my closest friends from CARE, Adam and Dylan. Dylan had left working at CARE to pursue other things and Adam was leaving on a vacation and wouldn’t get back until after I would leave CARE. These two guys had become two of my closest friends ever and I miss hanging out with them very much. I then drove back to CARE with my other good friend Matt, who sadly departed the next day back to Holland. 

 
Me, Dylan, and Joselyn with some birthday tequila

Perseus, the porcupine skull and quills I found at Lajuma





Me and Orion
Me and Awesome
My final two weeks at CARE were a whirlwind. I felt much better being there again after my brief vacation away. It was amazing to see my boys again, who had gotten so big. In my absence, they had integrated an older female baboon into the young baby troop. She took quite a liking to Orion. So much so that he began to sleep outside with her at night, and soon more and more of the Awesome Hok kids were sleeping outside with them, including Awesome. But not to worry, they still remembered who their mom was. We spent a lot of quality time together playing and taking naps. Orion loved to sleep inside my shirt while Awesome preferred to sleep as close to my face as possible. I also spent a lot of time taking photos and hanging out with some of the older baboons as well, including my other two boys Hillablue and Toughie. At the end of it all, I felt okay about leaving CARE, which has still a lot of work to do, but incredibly sad to leave my little boys. After spending almost every day all day with them, it’s very strange not to have them following me around.  But I know they are good kids and will grow up to be good baboons. 


Me and Toughie

















My last night at CARE, I went out to dinner with Mary and her mom and sister who were visiting. As we were driving out of Grietjie, the nature reserve, we came across two lions, one male and one female, just sauntering down the road in front of us. We followed them for about half an hour before they finally turned into the bushes. It was very cool. We spent time at dinner talking about how awesome it was to see them one last time. But then on our way back to CARE a couple of hours later, we saw them again! There they were, closer to CARE this time, the male and female were lying right in the road again. We ended up following them for over an hour until we had to make the difficult decision to turn home due to our lack of gas in the car. But this time as the male was following the female down the road, he said down right in front of our car, right in the headlights, and roared. He was probably 15 feet from me and he roared. It was the coolest thing I’d ever heard. I could feel it in my bones. I legitimately almost had tears in my eyes. The couple got up and walked some more down the road, and by this time another car had joined us. For a few minutes the lions seemed a bit confused and kept walking in circles around our cars. Man, they are big up close! The female then ran down the road to greet another, younger female who had just come out of the bush! These two females started playing and rolling around on the road bathed in the light from our headlights, just like housecats do. We had to turn around at this point because we didn’t know if we’d have enough gas to get back to CARE and then back to town in the morning. If we did have enough gas I would have made us follow them until morning! It was an incredible last night in Africa, so see lions up close right in our backyard.









Awesome 

Orion 

Tuesday, February 12, 2013

Good Friends

Finally eating chinese food!

Me, Hannah, and Joselyn, who met last year at CARE and have remained good friends

Me and Dylan swimming in the dam

A night out to eat sushi!

Me and Elin

Me and Dylan

Dylan and Elin

Me and Mary, who baked me a cake for my birthday since we weren't going to be together for it

Christmas dinner

Me, Hannah, and Alex

Me and Adam

Mary, Matt, and I on New Year's Eve

Me and Matt


Joselyn and Mary at Lajuma

Matt, Hannah, and Rachael working hard

Mary, me, and Joselyn looking crazy

Mary, me, and Joselyn with elephants across the river

me and Mary

Thanksgiving dinner

How They've Grown

Orion

Awesome

Sunday, November 4, 2012

Lions! Oh My!


Firstly, sorry it’s taken me a while to write another post.


Awesome--look at his yellow shoulders and back and brow!
I’ll start with a baby update. My boys are doing really well. They are staying in the hok all day now, playing with the other little kids. I’ve (unofficially) named it Awesome Hok because, well, that sounds awesome. Orion is getting super heavy, drinking lots of bottles all day long. Awesome is a little slower in his physical development. Orion has 8 teeth with about 4 more coming in already, while Awesome only has the 8 with no more showing. Awesome, however, is a cool baboon. He is so switched on and playing all day. He hunts for bugs and looks around when he sees big birds or elephants or anything predatory. He still clings to me whenever I take one step, he likes to pinch my neck, he likes to sleep holding my arm. Orion is pretty cheeky now; he runs away from me, he steals whole donuts and runs away from me on two legs (which was actually hilarious), and pulls hair now. But they’re both sweet and cute and I love them wholeheartedly.

Two days ago, Paul, our driver called back to us saying lions were close to the road. A bunch of us IMMEDIATELY jumped in the back of a truck, work be damned!, and took off down the road. About 15 minutes down the road, we found then, sooooo close to the road. They were sleeping in the bush, but we watched them for almost an hour anyways. A few us then went back at dust, after work this time, just as they were getting up and moving. We moved along with about 3 big females for about another hour. It wasn’t exactly safe sitting in the open air in the back of a truck with a lioness two bounds away.









Halloween 
Nothing much other than that is new here. My friend Joselyn from my last trip is coming to visit for a week tomorrow.  Halloween was pretty fun around here. Most of us dressed up. I reinvigorated my pencil costume from a few years ago. I brought my fun yellow pants so I thought it’d be good and easy. We had a monkey in a kilt, Archer (from the animated FX series), Papa Lazaroo (not sure, from some british tv show), a leopard, and Courtney wore my amazing matching monkey pajamas. We played a number of drinking games and ate candy and caramel apples. Hope everyone else had a fun Halloween! Now we’ve got to start thinking ahead to Thanksgiving, which I’m hoping to cook!


Ellie 




Orion - seriously, how cute is this kid! 






Monday, October 15, 2012

Ellies!


This afternoon, my friend Mary and I took our kids, Orion, Awesome, and her baby girl Ellie down to the river so they could play on the beach. Awesome stops playing all of sudden and I realize he is looking up at some birds. A few minutes later, he stops again and I wonder "what are you looking at this time, Awesome, more birds?" Nope! ELEPHANTS! A herd of 15 elephants were just across the river. Mary and I were overjoyed. The herd moved along the river, then stopped to drink, then crossed it! Mary and I followed their progress on our side of the beach, but then quickly retreated once we saw them crossing. There was no danger though because they turned to walk away from us, sadly. Just one of those afternoons when I love being in Africa.

Sunday, October 14, 2012

October already?!

-->
Things have been pretty standard around here for the past couple of weeks. Orion and Awesome are doing really really well. Orion is gaining loads of wait, and looks huge and feels so much heavier than he used to. He’s got quite the tummy on him now. Awesome is slowly catching up. Both boys are changing colors rapidly. Their brows are turning yellow, (well Awesome’s was always neon yellow), their faces are getting darker, and their forearms are now a silvery, yellow color. They’re acting more like brothers now, playing together all day.

In fact, yesterday Orion didn’t’ even want to leave the hok in the morning, so I left him there without me! When I went back to deliver some food, Awesome stayed as well. So now both boys play in the hok without me all morning with no problem! I didn’t think that would happen for another few weeks, but these baboons really tell you when they’re ready to move forward. I was feeling a bit unloved and empty without them on me all morning until I realized I could finally go back in with the Tiny Dancer Troop and see my old friend Toughie. They were the kids I raised last year when I was here for three months. Toughie and I grew close then, were close when I visited in February, and were getting close again this trip, until I got a baby. Babies are highly valued to baboons so only the higher ranking ones, and usually just the females, crowd around me every time I’m near, so Toughie isn’t allowed to come near me. But without my bows in tow, Toughie came right to me, snuggled under my shirt, and fell asleep within seconds. Just like old times. It was SO GREAT! I also used an hour in the afternoon to go running, which felt nice. Soon, or in a few weeks’ time maybe, Awesome and Orion will be able to stay and play all day in the hok and I’ll be able to resume a somewhat normal schedule around here.

-->
This morning we moved Weirdos Troop, baboons are about three years old, to a new hok. Since they are getting older they were a bit hard to catch and carry, but it was pretty fun to watch.  A few days ago a large rock tortoise wandered its way into CARE. Their shells are so pretty! We picked it up and moved it farther away so that it wouldn’t get run over by any trucks. It’s always nice to see some other wildlife.
Not much else is new here, just trying to keep my boys happy!

Awesome (asleep) and Orion